Step 1 of 5
1
Most likely fix

Clean the build plate

Wipe it with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Finger oils are the #1 reason prints don't stick.

Use 99% IPA, not 70% (that leaves residue). Wipe when cool. Do this before every print.

2
Calibration

Run auto bed leveling

On the printer screen: Settings ? Calibration ? Auto Bed Leveling. Takes 5 minutes. Corrects Z-offset drift that builds up over time.

3
Fine-tuning

Adjust Z-offset during printing

Start a print. During the first layer, go to Control ? Z Offset. Adjust in 0.02mm steps.

Lines round with gapsToo high ? decrease Z
Lines transparent/paper-thinToo low ? increase Z
Lines squished, opaque, touchingCorrect
4
Temperature

Check bed temperature

Wrong bed temp = no adhesion. Verify in your slicer:

PLA35–45°C
PETG70–85°C
ABS / ASA90–110°C
TPU35–45°C

Also try reducing first layer speed to 30–50%.

5
Advanced

Less common causes

If steps 1–4 didn't fix it, expand the topic that matches your situation:

Add a brim (5–10mm width). Reduce part cooling on the first layers. For ABS/ASA, you need an enclosure. Check for drafts.

Bed mesh is uneven. Run auto bed leveling again. Check bed mounting screws underneath.

Wash with soap and water first (remove factory film). New plates need 2–3 prints to "break in."

Cool Plate: PLA (no glue), PETG (with glue as release agent).
Textured PEI: PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA.
High-temp: ABS, ASA, PC with glue.

Full plate care guide →

Problem solved!

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