Menu
NewsReviewsPrintersCompareGuidesTroubleshootingOur Picks

Resources

MaterialsEcosystemToolsPrice TrackerFirmware TrackerAccessoriesForum

Hotend & Nozzle Replacement

Model-specific guides for replacing your complete hotend assembly.

Last updated

How do I replace the hotend on my Bambu printer?

Unload filament, let the hotend cool to 50°C or lower and power off. On X1C, P1S and P1P: unplug the heater, fan and thermistor cables and remove two screws with an H2.0 hex key. The A1 and A1 mini use a tool-free buckle, the P2S, X2D, H2D and H2S a tool-free clip. If the nozzle size or material changed, update the nozzle information on the printer screen, then run a full calibration.

Title
Bambu Lab Hotend and Nozzle Replacement Guide
Section
Guides
Last updated
Page
Status
Not affiliated with Bambu Lab

What you need

  • Bambu Hotend A1/A2, hardened steel (A1/A1 mini/A2L): On these printers nozzle and heatsink are one part, so the hardened option for abrasive CF/GF filaments is a complete hotend in hardened steel. View at Bambu Lab
  • E3D ObXidian 0.6mm High Flow (P1P/P1S): A complete hardened 0.6 mm high-flow hotend for the P1P and P1S, made for abrasive CF/GF filaments. View on Amazon
  • Brass Brush Set: Optional for residue on the nozzle exterior; Bambu's own guides use tissue, a cloth, tweezers or its wet cleaning sponge. If you brush, take the sock off, brush lightly while warm rather than hot, and keep the bristles off the heater wires. View on Amazon
  • Grill Armor Heat-Resistant Gloves: Gloves with fingers for briefly handling a warm hotend, for example when residue holds it and you warm it to pull it out; otherwise swap it cold. View on Amazon

Affiliate links. We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

Hotend type by printer

On the A1, P2S, X2D and H2 series the heater stays in the toolhead and you swap only the hotend. On the X1 and P1 series, order the Complete Hotend (heater, thermistor and fan included) for the two-screw swap below, or move heater, thermistor and fan to a bare Hotend. Mount type differs by model.

PrinterMount typeTool needed
X1 Carbon / P1S / P1PTwo screws + three cable plugsH2.0 hex key
A1Tool-free buckleNone (tool-free)
A1 miniTool-free buckleNone (tool-free)
P2S / H2STool-free clip, one hotendNone (tool-free)
X2D / H2DTool-free clip, two hotends behind a flow blockerNone (tool-free)
Bambu Complete Hotend for the X1 and P1 series: a black fan on top, the hotend in a black silicone sock below, nozzle tip at the bottom

Complete Hotend, X1 / P1

X1 Carbon, P1S, P1P: two screws + three cable plugs

Bambu Hotend A1/A2: a black finned heatsink marked 0.4 on a dark steel tube with the nozzle at the tip

Hotend, A1 / A2

A1, A1 mini: tool-free buckle

Bambu Hotend H2/P2S/X2D: a black finned heatsink with a clip tab on a silver steel tube with the nozzle at the tip

Hotend, H2 / P2S / X2D

P2S, X2D, H2D, H2S: tool-free clip

Which hotend you have: the Complete Hotend for the X1 and P1 series with its fan, the A1/A2 hotend and the hotend for the clip-on printers, not to scale against each other. Images: Bambu Lab.

Available hotend types

TypeSizesBest for
Stainless steel (standard)0.4mmPLA, PETG, TPU, ABS
Hardened steel0.4, 0.6, 0.8mmCF, GF, abrasive filaments
0.6mm nozzle0.6mmFaster prints, functional parts
0.8mm nozzle0.8mmDraft prints, large objects
0.2mm nozzle0.2mmUltra-fine detail, miniatures

When to replace the hotend

  • Inconsistent extrusion: Lines varying in width despite good calibration
  • Visible nozzle wear: Tip is scratched, flattened, or has visible grooves
  • After abrasive filaments: Carbon fiber (CF), glass fiber (GF), and glow-in-the-dark materials wear stainless steel nozzles quickly; Bambu requires hardened steel for them
  • Persistent clogs: After cold pulls fail to clear the blockage
  • Switching nozzle sizes: 0.4mm to 0.6mm or 0.8mm for different print requirements
Nozzle orifice diameters 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm next to 1.75 mm filament, to scaleØ1.75filamentØ0.2Ø0.4Ø0.6Ø0.8stainlesshardened steel1 mmNozzle orifice diameters 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm next to 1.75 mm filament, to scaleØ1.75filamentØ0.2Ø0.4Ø0.6Ø0.8stainlesshardened steel1 mm
Fig. 1The sizes you can switch to, to scale next to 1.75 mm filament: Bambu's spare hotends for the X1 and P1 series come in 0.2 mm stainless steel and 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm hardened steel. Yellow: 0.4 mm, the size the P1S ships with, on the P1S in stainless steel (dimensions in mm).
  • As delivered, the P1S has a 0.4 mm stainless steel nozzle; 0.2, 0.6 and 0.8 mm are listed as optional (P1S tech specs).
  • Source: Bambu Lab store, hotend pages for X1 and P1 series; Bambu Lab P1S tech specs, checked 2026-10-16

X1 Carbon / P1S / P1P: two-screw swap

  1. Unload the filament via the printer's filament menu.
  2. Let the nozzle cool to 50°C or lower, then power off the printer.
  3. Remove the toolhead front cover (magnetic on the X1; on the P1 disconnect the front-cover fan cable first).
  4. Unplug the ceramic heater, hotend fan and thermistor cables. On the X1/X1C, press the latch on the thermistor plug before pulling it.
  5. Remove the two screws near the top of the heatsink with an H2.0 hex key and take the hotend out.
  6. Fit the new hotend, tighten both screws evenly without overtightening, reconnect thermistor, fan and heater, refit the cover.
  7. If the nozzle diameter or material changed, update the nozzle information on the printer screen.
  8. Power on and run the calibration.

A1 / A1 mini: quick-release swap

  1. Power off and let the nozzle cool. Press the filament lever on the right side and cut the filament.
  2. Pull the front cover off from its bottom front right corner and remove the silicone sock.
  3. Push the nozzle buckle to the right to unlock it, then swing its left side outward
  4. Hold the heatsink and pull the hotend out
  5. Insert the new hotend tilted slightly toward the back; the magnet aligns it. Press the heatsink until it sits flush against the heating assembly.
  6. Close the buckle: flip the left side in first, then lock the right side. If it will not lock, the hotend is not seated flat.
  7. Refit the silicone sock and press the bottom corners of the front cover until it clicks into place.
  8. If the nozzle diameter or material changed, update it on the printer under Settings → Maintenance → Nozzle before printing.
  9. Run calibration after replacement

P2S, X2D, H2D, H2S: clip-on hotend swap

The newer Bambu printers hold the hotend with a two-part clip instead of screws, and the cables stay on the toolhead. Bambu sells hotends for them in 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm, plus a hardened-steel High Flow hotend in 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm that fits all four (and the H2C).

  1. Power off and let the hotend cool to room temperature. H2D: first lower the bed all the way (Controls → Motion), then power off and lift off the top glass cover. If filament is still loaded (H2D, H2S), press the filament cutter so the hotend can come out.
  2. Open the toolhead front cover: on the P2S hang it on the toolhead, on the X2D disconnect its cables and take it off, on the H2S press its bottom and pull it forward, on the H2D pinch the two top corners and lift.
  3. Grip the silicone sock on both sides and pull it down and toward the front.
  4. X2D and H2D only: move the flow blocker away from the hotend you want to remove with the lifting rod (push it to the right to free the left hotend). Never push the blocker itself; Bambu warns it breaks easily.
  5. Unlock the clip (P2S: right side first, then the left metal plate) and pull the hotend out by its heatsink. If residue holds it, warm it slightly (Bambu gives 50–80 °C for the X2D), wear heat-resistant gloves and pry gently with tweezers or a screwdriver. Cut off any filament sticking out of the top of the old hotend.
  6. Open the clip fully, seat the new hotend flat against the heating assembly, close the left metal plate first and then press the right ring. On the H2D, align the left latch completely before you press the right clip; pressing both at once jams the latch inside the clip.
  7. Slide the silicone sock on from the bottom up so it sits straight and does not touch the plastic around it. Replace the sock when it no longer stays on or the nozzle temperature stops holding steady. Close the front cover.
  8. Pull gently on the hotend: it must not wiggle. If the diameter or material changed, update the nozzle information on the printer screen (P2S: Filament → Nozzle & Extruder → Nozzle Type). Current Bambu Studio versions show the nozzle on the Printer Parts page as read-only for the H2D and X2D, so the printer screen is the only place to change it.

After replacement: calibration steps

  • Update nozzle diameter and material on the printer screen if they changed
  • Auto bed leveling (the new hotend will have a slightly different effective length)
  • First layer inspection print to verify Z-offset
  • Flow calibration if you switched nozzle sizes

Print a small test object first before committing to a long print. Hotend connections occasionally need reseating if the first few prints show extrusion inconsistencies.

Sources

Bambu Lab wiki and Bambu Lab store.

ShowHide

Need gear? Our picks, All accessories

Tools for this job

Everything you need for a clean hotend swap.

  • Nozzle Cleaning Kit

    Nozzle Cleaning Kit

    Try a needle and cold pull first: many suspected dead nozzles are just clogged, which this kit clears in minutes.

    Amazon

  • E3D ObXidian Nozzle

    E3D ObXidian 0.6mm (P1P/P1S)

    Hardened 0.6mm high-flow replacement for the P1P and P1S. Handles the abrasive CF/GF filaments that wear out stock steel.

    Amazon

  • Bambu Hotend A1/A2

    Bambu Hotend A1/A2, hardened steel

    On the A1, A1 mini and A2L you swap the complete hotend, since nozzle and heatsink are one part. Bambu's hardened steel version is the spare to have for abrasive CF and GF filaments.

    Bambu Lab

  • Wera Hex-Plus L-Key Set

    Wera Hex-Plus L-Key Set

    Quality hex keys for the two H2.0 hotend screws on X1/P1 printers; cheap keys strip these small heads fast.

    Amazon

Affiliate links. We may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.