Hotend & Nozzle Replacement

• Inconsistent extrusion: Lines varying in width despite good calibration
• Visible nozzle wear: Tip is scratched, flattened, or has visible grooves
• After abrasive filaments: Carbon fiber (CF), glass fiber (GF), and glow-in-the-dark materials wear brass nozzles quickly
• Persistent clogs: After cold pulls fail to clear the blockage
• Switching nozzle sizes: 0.4mm to 0.6mm or 0.8mm for different print requirements

The X1C has the easiest hotend swap of any Bambu printer.

1. Unload filament via touchscreen (Settings ? Filament ? Unload). Wait for full retraction.
2. Allow nozzle to cool to below 60°C
3. Locate the metal latch on the front of the print head. Press or swing it outward to release.
4. Pull the hotend straight down and out
5. Insert the new hotend and push up until it clicks into place
6. Verify the latch re-engages fully
7. Run auto-calibration after replacement

1. Unload filament and let the hotend cool below 60°C
2. Open the printer panels for access
3. Locate the two H2.0 hex screws securing the hotend to the print head carriage
4. Loosen (do not fully remove) both screws
5. Slide the hotend down and out of the carriage mount
6. Disconnect the hotend cable connector (small white plug)
7. Connect the new hotend cable, slide into the mount, tighten screws
8. Do not overtighten; snug is enough
9. Run auto-calibration after replacement

1. Unload filament and let the hotend cool below 60°C
2. Press the release button/lever on the print head
3. Pull the hotend assembly out
4. Insert the new hotend until it clicks
5. Verify firm seating
6. Run calibration after replacement

• Auto bed leveling (the new hotend will have a slightly different effective length)
• First layer inspection print to verify Z-offset
• Flow calibration if you switched nozzle sizes

Print a small test object first before committing to a long print. Hotend connections occasionally need reseating if the first few prints show extrusion inconsistencies.